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    • 专利摘要:
    The invention relates to a cosmetic composition intended to be applied to the hair and scalp comprising extracts of aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis) and of coconut fruit (Cocos nucifera), characterized in that it is in the form of '' a foaming emulsion comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: - an aloe vera extract chosen from water, an aloe vera juice and / or powder; - more than 0.5% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w) of a coconut oil; - at least one non-sulfur and non-ethoxylated surfactant; and - at least one cationic conditioning agent derived from guar gum (Cyamopsis tetragonoloba)). The invention relates to a process for preparing a composition according to the invention for obtaining a foaming emulsion, as well as the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for washing or caring for the hair and a cosmetic treatment process hair consisting in applying an effective amount of a composition according to the invention to the hair and then optionally rinsing with water.
    公开号:FR3085592A1
    申请号:FR1871026
    申请日:2018-09-12
    公开日:2020-03-13
    发明作者:Sarah Bovaere；Nathalie Dabin；Valerie Demars Marcadet
    申请人:LABORATOIRES LEA；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    Description
    Title of the invention: HAIR COSMETIC COMPOSITION BASED ON ALOE VERA AND COCONUT OIL AND ITS PREPARATION METHOD Technical field [0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics. It relates more particularly to a new cosmetic composition intended to be applied to the hair and the scalp comprising extracts of aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis) and of coconut fruit (Cocos nuciferci), a process for the preparation of such a composition as well than its use for washing or caring for hair.
    The hair is composed of three superimposed layers. On the outside, the cuticle consists of a thin protective envelope; in the middle, the cortex, the intermediate “bark”, is the most robust part of the hair, and represents approximately 90% of its total weight; and inside there is the marrow.
    The cuticle forms a thick sheath by superimposition of numerous partially overlapping scales. The cuticle is more particularly composed of scales, made of thin and ultra-flat keratin plates, stacked on top of each other, in several layers closely juxtaposed, like roof tiles. Vertically, these scales are nested head-to-tail in other scales, those of the inner sheath of the hair follicle, facing upwards. Their nesting in each other allows the hair shaft to go up, and grow along the follicle. Horizontally, the scales of the cuticle are linked together by ceramides, oily and precious substances, mainly consisting of essential fatty acids.
    The cells of the cuticle are made up of three layers: the endocuticle (the deepest), the exocuticle and the epicuticle.
    The epicuticle, of particular interest, corresponds to the thin lipid layer on the surface of the hair. It is what makes it waterproof, provided it is completely intact and undamaged. It represents on average 10% of the diameter of the hair.
    The cortex is the largest part and the heart of the fiber. It is in the cortex that the fibrous proteins characteristic of the hair are located: the akeratins. Keratin is made up of two kinds of fibers, one vertical, the other horizontal. Vertically, there are multiple skeins of proteins, embedded in each other, namely macrofibrils, also comprising the melanin pigments which determine the color of the hair, which are themselves made of several thousand microfibrils, which are in turn assembled into protofibrils (primitive fibrils). The twisted chains follow the axis of the hair and give it its elasticity. Horizontally, these protein chains are sealed to each other by disulfide bridges. These bridges give the chains their rigidity and consistency. The cortex gives the hair its color and its resistance. It represents on average 75% of the diameter of the hair.
    The cord is located in the center of the hair. It looks like a large pipe and is made up of cells without a nucleus. It has no particular function in human hair and does not contribute to mechanical properties. The medulla represents on average 15% of the diameter.
    PRIOR ART To date, there are many cosmetic products such as shampoos based on plant extracts for washing and caring for the hair.
    Aloe vera is for example widely used in cosmetics for its moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, healing properties and its anti-aging action.
    Coconut extracts such as coconut oil are also commonly used to nourish the hair.
    We know for example the shampoo CLEAR SCALP & HAIR BEAUTY THERAPY INTENSE HYDRATION® from UNILEVER which includes inter alia powdered aloe vera leaves (Aloe barbadensis), coconut oil (Cocos nuciferd) , as well as at least one cationic surfactant, a sulfur surfactant (TEA-dodecylbenzenesulfonate, TEA-sulfate) and an anionic gelling agent.
    Similarly, the shampoo 365 EVERYDAY VALUE CITRUS GRAPEFRUIT® from WHOLE FOODS MARKET is known, which comprises in particular juice from aloe vera leaves (Aloe barbadensis). coconut oil (Cocos niicifera), as well as at least one cationic surfactant, a sulfur surfactant (isethionate, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine) and an anionic gelling agent.
    Anionic sulfur surfactants are amphiphilic molecules containing at least one sulfur atom. Almost all of the sulfur surfactants are grouped among the sulfates and their sulfosuccinate, sulfoacetate, isethionate, taurate derivatives.
    Sulfur surfactants are commonly used for their very good foaming, detergent properties and their competitive prices.
    However, these surfactants have a very large negative charge. This charge can bind to specific active sites in the protein sequence of Γα-keratin (positively charged) which makes up about 80% of human hair. This is the case, for example, with glycine, a positively charged amino acid, the sulfates of which cause denaturation. This denaturation will dissolve cellular material and can go as far as dissolving the endocuticle which can then lead to the detachment of the cuticles during the next shampoo.
    In addition, although consumers often associate the foam with a "washing" product, the sulfates are aggressive surfactants and irritants for the skin. They can affect the scalp and cause irritation, itching or the appearance of dandruff. Irritation can also cause a disruption of the sebaceous glands, causing hyperseborrhea.
    Technical problem Considering the above, a problem which the invention proposes to solve is to develop a cosmetic product intended to be applied to the hair and the scalp associating a complex of active ingredients which is the least aggressive possible and which meets the needs of the hair fiber while maintaining good stability and satisfactory foaming properties in terms of volume, quality and rinsing. More particularly, the invention aims to provide a product providing a moisturizing active, a nourishing active and two categories of materials specific to foaming products (surfactant and conditioner) to impart shine, softness, sheathing and flexibility to the hair without altering the lipid layer, called the epicuticle, of the hair fiber.
    Technical solution The first solution to this problem is a cosmetic composition intended to be applied to the hair and scalp comprising extracts of aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis) and coconut fruit (Cocos nue if era ), characterized in that it is in the form of a foaming emulsion comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
    - an aloe vera extract chosen from water, juice and / or aloe vera powder;
    - more than 0.5% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w) of a coconut oil;
    - at least one non-sulfur and non-ethoxylated surfactant; and
    - at least one cationic conditioning agent derived from guar gum (Cyamopsis tetragonoloba).
    The second object is a process for preparing a composition according to the invention, characterized in that it comprises the following steps according to which:
    a) the aloe vera extract (s) chosen from water, a juice and / or aloe vera powder are mixed in water,
    b) dispersing at least one cationic conditioning agent derived from guar gum (Cyamopsis tetragonolobd) in the mixture obtained in a),
    c) after neutralization, an aqueous gel is left to form by agitation greater than 1000 revolutions / minute in an emulsifier,
    d) optionally, an anionic gelling agent is dispersed by agitation greater than 1000 revolutions / minute in an emulsifier and heating to a temperature greater than 50 ° C.,
    e) more than 0.5% coconut oil by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w) is heated to a temperature above 50 ° C. and then is added to the aqueous gel obtained in c) or d ) under foam concentrate, and
    f) a non-sulfur and non-ethoxylated surfactant is added at a temperature below 30 ° C. with stirring of less than 1000 revolutions / minute to obtain a foaming emulsion.
    Its third object is the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for washing or caring for the hair.
    Finally, the invention has as a final object a cosmetic treatment process for the hair, characterized in that it consists in applying to the hair an effective amount of a composition according to the invention then optionally in rinsing with water. 'water.
    Advantages provided [0022] The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises a synergistic association:
    - aloe vera to intensely hydrate the hair fiber and scalp and soothe irritated and itchy scalps. Its nutrients will also bring strength, shine and shine to the hair, making it less brittle and smoother;
    - coconut oil, for its richness in particular in lauric acid allowing it to penetrate the hair fiber for deep nutrition;
    - surfactant (s) not sulfur (s) and not ethoxylated (s), for the foam which they bring without denaturing the hair, or irritating the scalp; and
    - cationic conditioner (s) derived from guar gum, for their sheathing action, not suffocating the hair and thus allowing the active complex to penetrate.
    Also, the production of a foaming emulsion according to the invention makes it possible to have satisfactory quantity and quality of foam despite the addition of coconut oil which will “break” the foam and the absence of surfactants sulfur known for their foaming qualities. The addition of vegetable oil (s) in a foaming emulsion will, in fact, considerably limit the foaming effect of the latter.
    However, it is known that the surfactants are generally aqueous materials, the addition of a large amount of water after an emulsion disturbs the balance of the phases and will completely destabilize the latter, not allowing its marketing.
    To remove this constraint, the choice of surfactants used according to the invention as well as the procedure carried out is essential to obtain the right compromise between foam and stability of the composition while retaining their detergent properties.
    In addition, the use of such a composition according to the invention makes it possible to combine a cationic guar gum with an anionic gelling agent, which in theory is incompatible.
    Finally, from a regulatory and ecological point of view, the composition according to the invention meets the COSMOS Organic label certified by the ECOCERT group only authorizing materials which respect the environment. In addition, it does not contain any palm oil derivatives for ethical and environmental reasons.
    In this description, unless otherwise specified, it is understood that, when an interval is given, it includes the upper and lower bounds of said interval.
    Brief Description of the Drawings The invention and the advantages which ensue therefrom will be better understood on reading the description and the nonlimiting embodiments which follow, illustrated with reference to the appended drawings in which:
    Fig.l [fig.l] represents an image (magnification * 1000) of scanning electron microscopy (SEM) of hair cuticles highlighting the effects of a composition according to the invention used as a "control ”(Reference 2357A.21) implemented in the context of Example 2.
    Fig.2 [fig.2] represents a SEM image (magnification * 1000) of hair cuticles highlighting the effects of the “control” composition according to the invention not comprising quaternized guar gum (Reference 2357A.22) implemented in the context of Example 2.
    Fig.3 [0032] [fig.3] represents a SEM image (magnification * 1000) of hair cuticles highlighting the effects of the “control” composition according to the invention in which the quaternized guar gum was replaced with a synthetic quaternary ammonium, namely cetrimonium chloride (Reference 2357A.23), used in the context of Example 2.
    Fig.4 [fig.4] represents a SEM image (magnification * 1000) of cuticles of a hair highlighting the effects of the “control” composition according to the invention not comprising coconut oil ( Reference 2357A.24) implemented in the context of Example 2.
    Fig.5 [fig.5] represents a SEM image (magnification * 1000) of hair cuticles highlighting the effects of the “control” composition according to the invention comprising 0.5% oil coconut (Reference 2357A.25) used in the context of Example 2. Fig.6 [0035] [fig.6] represents a SEM image (magnification * 1000) of hair cuticles highlighting the effects of the “control” composition according to the invention comprising 1% coconut oil (Reference 2357A.26) used in the context of Example 2. Fig.7 [0036] [fig.7] represents an image SEM (magnification * 1000) of a sample of hair cuticles highlighting the effects of the “control” composition according to the invention not comprising aloe vera (Reference 2357A.27) used in the context from example 2.
    Fig.8 [fig.8] represents a SEM image (magnification * 1000) of hair cuticles highlighting the effects of the “control” composition according to the invention comprising a sulfur-containing surfactant (Reference 2357A.28 ) implemented in the context of Example 2. Description of the embodiments The invention relates to a cosmetic composition intended to be applied to the hair and scalp comprising extracts of aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis) and coconut fruit (Cocos nucifera). It is in the form of a foaming emulsion comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
    - an aloe vera extract chosen from water, juice and / or aloe vera powder;
    - more than 0.5% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w) of a coconut oil;
    - at least one non-sulfur and non-ethoxylated surfactant; and
    - at least one cationic conditioning agent derived from guar gum (Cyamopsis tetragonolobd).
    The composition according to the invention comprises an aloe vera extract chosen from water, juice and / or aloe vera powder.
    Aloe vera is a xerophytic and succulent plant, that is to say that it grows in an arid environment and stores water in its leaves. Water is therefore the main constituent of these leaves (98 to 99%). The remaining 1-2% is dry matter, very rich in nutritional components.
    These components are in particular:
    - vitamins: A, Bl, B2, B3, B6, B9 and B12;
    - minerals: calcium, chlorine, chromium, copper, iron, magnesium, manganese, phosphorus, potassium, sodium, zinc;
    - essential amino acids: Isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, threonine, valine;
    - secondary amino acids: aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, cystine, glycine, histidine, hydroxiproline, proline, serine, tyrosine;
    - anti-inflammatory enzymes;
    - mono- and polysacharrides: cellulose, glucose, galactose, mannose, aldonentose, uronic acid, lipase, aliinase, L-rhamnose; and
    - lignin, saponins and anthraquinones.
    The synergy of these vitamins, minerals, enzymes and other amino acids gives aloe vera moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, healing properties and an anti-aging action.
    More particularly, the aloe vera extract will intensely hydrate the hair fiber and bring strength, shine and shine to the hair, thus making it less brittle and smoother.
    It will also moisturize the scalp, which can soothe irritated and itchy scalps.
    Advantageously, the enzymes present in aloe vera can also prevent hair loss by protecting the scalp from attack, and its slightly acidic pH will facilitate the penetration of nutrients which will be able to revitalize the bulb, strengthen it and thus stimulate hair growth.
    The aloe vera extract of the composition according to the invention is preferably aloe vera leaf powder and / or aloe vera leaf juice, more preferably a mixture of aloe vera powder aloe vera and aloe vera leaf juice.
    The composition according to the invention preferably comprises powdered aloe vera leaves at a concentration of between 0.01% and 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w) and / or the juice aloe vera leaves at a concentration of between 0.5% and 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w).
    The composition according to the invention more preferably comprises powdered aloe vera leaves at a concentration of between 0.01% and 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w) and the juice of aloe vera leaves at a concentration of between 0.5% and 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w).
    Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises aloe vera leaf powder at a concentration of between 0.02% and 0.5% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w), by example 0.03%, 0.04%, 0.04%, 0.05%, 0.06%, 0.07%, 0.08%, 0.09%, 0.1%, 0.2% , 0.3% or 0.4%.
    Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises juice of aloe vera leaves at a concentration of between 1% and 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w), for example 2%, 3 %, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8% or even 9%.
    The composition according to the invention also comprises more than 0.5% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w) of a coconut oil.
    Coconut oil is composed of lipids and unsaponifiables (terpenoids and vitamins). The lipids, which are the majority in the composition of coconut oil, are present in the form of fatty acids and phospholipids. The fatty acids that make up coconut oil are:
    - lauric acid (40 to 55%);
    - myristic acid (15 to 23%);
    - oleic acid (5 to 15%);
    - palmitic acid (5 to 12%);
    - caprylic acid (5 to 10%);
    - capric acid (5 to 9%);
    - stearic acid (there 4%);
    - linoleic acid (there 2%); and
    - palmitoleic, caproic, eicosenoic, linolenic and arachidic acids (traces).
    Coconut oil comprising a high concentration of lauric acid has the ability to penetrate the hair fiber. In fact, lauric acid has a great affinity with the proteins of the hair and thanks to its low molecular weight and its linear chain, is able to penetrate the hair fiber.
    Coconut oil gives the hair fiber sheathing, protective and restructuring properties and also makes it possible to reduce the penetration of water into the cortex, thus avoiding swelling of the fiber.
    Coconut oil thus makes it possible to obtain soft, silky, supple, disciplined, shiny, beautified, sheathed, shiny, hydrated, light, protected, repaired, sublimated, revitalized, fortified, restructured, nourished hair. , strengthened and regenerated.
    The hair also has volume and vitality, and the ends are less dry.
    Particularly advantageously, coconut oil facilitates detangling and improves the feeling of hydration of the hair; the scalp is also hydrated.
    The composition according to the invention preferably comprises coconut oil at a concentration of between 1% and 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w).
    The composition according to the invention more preferably comprises coconut oil at a concentration of between 1% and 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w), for example 1.5% , 2%, 2.5%, 3%, 3.5%, 4%, 4.5%, 5%, 5.5%, 6%, 6.5%, 7%, 7.5%, 8 %, 8.5%, 9% or 9.5%.
    The amount of coconut oil included in the composition according to the invention requires an emulsion to be produced. The technical constraint is then to produce a foaming emulsion, that is to say to succeed in combining the surfactants bringing the foam to the emulsion.
    In fact, the surfactants are aqueous materials which are, in addition, dispersed in water. The addition of a large amount of water after an emulsion disturbs the balance of the phases and will completely destabilize the emulsion, preventing the marketing of the finished product.
    The choice of surfactants included in the composition according to the invention is therefore essential and comprises at least one non-sulfur and non-ethoxylated surfactant.
    The composition according to the invention does not include a sulfur and / or ethoxylated surfactant.
    In addition to the previously described drawbacks of sulfur surfactants, the synthesis of ethoxylated surfactant is toxic and polluting for the environment.
    The non-sulfur and non-ethoxylated surfactant included in the composition according to the invention is preferably chosen from cocamidopropyl betaine, decyl glucoside, sodium cocoyl glutamate, lauryl glucoside, coco glucoside, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, and glucamide-derived surfactants such as cocoyl methyl glucamide or sunfloweroyl methyl glucamide, taken alone or as a mixture.
    Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a non-sulfur and non-ethoxylated surfactant taken alone or as a mixture at a concentration of between 0.5% and 40% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w), more preferably between 1% and 20%, for example 2%, 5%, 10% or even 15%.
    Preferably, the non-sulfur and non-ethoxylated surfactant included in the composition according to the invention is chosen from cocamidopropyl betaine, decyl glucoside, or sodium cocoyl glutamate, taken alone or as a mixture.
    The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises between 0.5 and 20% (w / w) of cocamidopropyl betaine, between 0.5% and 20% (w / w) of decyl glucoside and / or between 0.25 % and 10% (w / w) sodium cocoyl glutamate.
    More preferably, the non-sulfur and non-ethoxylated surfactant included in the composition according to the invention is a mixture of cocamidopropyl betaine, decyl glucoside and sodium cocoyl glutamate.
    Even more preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises respectively, in combination, between 0.5 and 20% (w / w) of cocamidopropyl betaine, for example between 0.5 and 10%, between 0.5% and 20% (w / w) of decyl glucoside, for example between 0.5% and 10%, and between 0.25% and 10% (w / w) of sodium cocoyl glutamate, for example between 0.25% and 7%.
    The choice of such (s) surfactant (s) non-sulfur (s) and non-ethoxylated (s) allows to stabilize the emulsion despite the addition of a large amount of aqueous material, and also to find a compromise between stability of the emulsion and quantity of foam in the finished product.
    The surfactants must be added with gentle stirring, advantageously with stirring of less than 1000 revolutions / minute, when cold, at a temperature below 30 ° C., advantageously of the order of 20 ° C., once the emulsion has been produced. . Otherwise, they will foam the emulsion, thus hampering its production, and they will themselves be caught in this emulsion, which considerably limits their foaming properties.
    The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one cationic conditioning agent derived from guar gum (Cyamopsis lelragonoloba).
    Guar (Cyamopsis lelragonoloba) is a plant cultivated, among others, in West Africa, Pakistan and India. This plant produces seeds which are shelled, crushed and sieved to obtain a gum. This is guar gum, composed mainly of galactomannan, that is to say a chain of mannose monomers to which a galactose unit is branched by a 1-6 bridge.
    The cationic conditioning agent derived from guar gum included in the composition according to the invention is preferably a derivative of quaternized guar gum, more preferably a hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar chloride.
    Natural guar gum is thus preferably coupled to 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride in order to obtain a positively charged quaternized guar gum.
    The grafting of this cationic part makes guar gum an excellent conditioner for the hair. Indeed, the positive charge of quaternized guar gum will be fixed on the negative charges of the hair.
    The more the hair is damaged and the greater the negative charge, thus causing electric and tangled hair.
    The cationic conditioning agent derived from guar gum included in the composition according to the invention will therefore be specifically fixed on damaged sites thanks to its positive charge and will then make it possible to untangle, reduce static electricity and bring sweetness thanks to the long chains of galactomannans.
    The fact that he selects the place where he fixes himself will limit the risk of heavy and dull hair as could be done, for example, with silicones. In addition, it is non-substantive and is therefore easily removed during the next shampoo, unlike, once again, silicones.
    The cationic conditioning agent derived from guar gum included in the composition according to the invention will make it possible to untangle the hair without damaging or weighing it down, thus optimizing the action of the coconut-aloe vera oil complex.
    The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the cationic conditioning agent obtained from guar gum at a concentration of between 0.05% and 1% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w), more preferably between 0 , 1% and 0.8%, for example 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6% or even 0.7%.
    According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the composition according to the invention, it also comprises at least one anionic gelling agent chosen from xanthan gum, locust bean gum, gellan gum, cellulose, pectin, bentonite, carrageenans, preferably xanthan gum.
    The anionic gelling agent thickens and stabilizes the emulsion according to the invention. The use of such an anionic gelling agent, negatively charged, is in theory completely incompatible with cationic guar gum, positively charged.
    To do this, the ratios used between these two types of ingredients are essential. Insofar as the quaternized guar gum is advantageously used at a concentration of 0.05-1%, by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w), it is necessary to use the anionic gelling agent, preferably xanthan gum , at a concentration of 0.1-2% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w).
    The mode of incorporation (stirring time, temperature, etc.) of these two types of ingredients is also important for improving their compatibility as described below in the preparation process according to the invention.
    Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the anionic gelling agent at a concentration of between 0.1% and 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w).
    A cosmetically acceptable medium means a medium suitable for use in contact with human and animal cells, in particular skin cells, scalp and hair, without toxicity, irritation, undue allergic response and the like, and proportionate to a reasonable benefit / risk ratio.
    Such a cosmetically acceptable medium may include other suitable ingredients, known and used in the cosmetic field. In all cases, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose the cosmetically acceptable medium (choice of additional ingredients as well as their proportions) so that it does not harm the desired advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention.
    By way of nonlimiting example of additional ingredient, the composition according to may also comprise a moisturizing or soothing agent chosen from hyaluronic acid, sodium PCA, glycerin and other glycerol derivatives or a polysaccharide such as a polysaccharide rich in galactomannans, for example tara gum (caesalpina spinosd).
    The composition according to the invention can also further comprise another vegetable oil chosen from castor oil, argan, jojoba, sweet almond, shea, avocado, carrot, apricot kernels, wheat germ, black cumin, mustard, borage, hazelnut, macadamia, abyssinia, sesame, evening primrose, prickly pear, grape seeds, safflower, camelina, karanja, camellia, chia, flax, mango, baobab, broccoli, andiroba, babassu, desert date palm, monoi, moringa, taken alone or in a mixture.
    The composition according to the invention may also further comprise another hair conditioning agent chosen from hydroxypropyltrimonium honey, starch hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, brassicamodipropyl dimethylamine, brassicyl isoleucinate esylate and brassicyl valinate esylate, taken alone or as a mixture .
    The compositions according to the invention are in a form suitable for topical application, without risk of discomfort during their application.
    By topical application, more particularly means the fact of applying or spreading the composition according to the invention, on the hair and scalp.
    The topical compositions for the implementation of the invention may in particular be in the form of a product to be rinsed off such as a shampoo, conditioner, mask, or else a product without rinsing such as a hair cream, hydrating serum.
    Another object of the invention relates to a process for the preparation of a composition according to the invention comprising the following steps in which:
    a) the aloe vera extract (s) chosen from water, a juice and / or aloe vera powder are mixed in water,
    b) at least one cationic conditioning agent from guar gum is dispersed in the mixture obtained in a),
    c) after neutralization, an aqueous gel is left to form by stirring greater than 1000 revolutions / minute, for example of the order of 1500 revolutions / minute, under emulsifier,
    d) optionally, an anionic gelling agent is dispersed by agitation greater than 1000 revolutions / minute in an emulsifier and heating to a temperature greater than 50 ° C., for example by agitation of the order of 2500 revolutions / minute and heating to a temperature of l '' around 70 ° C,
    e) more than 0.5% coconut oil by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w) is heated to a temperature above 50 ° C, advantageously of the order of 70 ° C, then is added to the aqueous gel obtained in c) or d) in an emulsifier, for example by stirring on the order of 2500 revolutions / minute, and
    f) a non-sulfur and non-ethoxylated surfactant is added cold, at a temperature below 30 ° C., advantageously of the order of 20 ° C., with stirring of less than 1000 revolutions / minute, for example by stirring of the order 900 rpm to obtain a foaming emulsion.
    Preferably, step d) is carried out according to which an anionic gelling agent is dispersed by agitation greater than 1000 revolutions / minute in an emulsifier and heating to a temperature above 50 ° C.
    According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, a tara gum (caesalpina spinosa) is added in a last step.
    According to an alternative embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the following steps are notably carried out according to which the anionic gelling agent is dispersed at the start, with the extract or extracts of aloe vera chosen from water, aloe vera juice and / or powder themselves dispersed in water, the quaternized guar gum gel is also formed alone in an amount of water to be defined according to the percentage of guar and finally this is added. premix at the end of the emulsion, taking care not to destabilize it. This makes it possible to space out incompatible charges and improve their compatibility.
    Another object of the invention relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for washing or caring for the hair.
    A final object of the invention relates to a cosmetic treatment process for the hair consisting in applying to the hair an effective amount of a composition according to the invention and then optionally rinsing with water.
    Advantageously, a rinsing is carried out.
    By effective amount is meant the minimum amount of composition according to the invention which is necessary for obtaining its activity, in particular cosmetic and more particularly for washing or caring for the hair.
    The composition according to the invention will intensely hydrate the hair fiber and bring strength, shine and shine to the hair, thus making it less brittle and smoother.
    The composition according to the invention can give the hair fiber sheathing, protective, restructuring properties and thus makes it possible to obtain soft, silky, supple, disciplined, shiny, embellished, sheathed, shiny, hydrated, light hair, protected, repaired, sublimated, revitalized, fortified, restructured, nourished, strengthened and regenerated. The hair regains volume and vitality, and the ends are less dry and their disentangling is facilitated.
    It can also reduce the penetration of water into the cortex, thus preventing the swelling of the fiber and hydrating the scalp, which can soothe irritated and itchy scalps.
    Advantageously, it can also help prevent hair loss by protecting the scalp from attack, and can revitalize the bulb, strengthen it and thus stimulate hair growth.
    Examples [0109] The present invention will now be illustrated by means of the following examples: [0110] Example 1: Preparation of an example of composition according to the invention [YES] [Tables 1]
    Phase INCI Concentration range (% by weight of the total weight of the composition) AT Add water and the first active ingredientsAQUA 50 - 100%ALOE BARBADENSIS LEAF JUICEPOWDER 0.01-2%ALOE BARBADENSIS LEAF JUICESODIUM LEVULINATESODIUM BENZOATECITRIC ACIDAQUAGLYCERIN 0.5-15% B Add a preservativeBENZYL ALCOHOL 0-1% VS Scatter the quaternized guar gumGUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDEAQUA 0.05-1% VS Neutralize with Lac ide lactique, and allow the gel to form in an emulsifier for 20 min at 1500 rpm.LACTIC ACIDAQUA 0.01-2% D Disperse the gums, and shake under foam concentrate for 10 min at 2500 rpm. Heat to 70 ° C => check that there are no gums on the foam concentrate.XANTHAN GUM 0.1-2% E Heat phase E to 70 ° C then emulsify for 10 min.COCOS NUCIFERA OIL 1-20%RICINUS COMMUNIS OIL 0.1-10%GLYCERYL STEARATE 0.1-10% E ' Emulsify 10 min at 2500rpmAQUASODIUM COCOYLGLUTAMATE 0.2-5% F At T <30 ° C, add with gentle stirring (900 rpm for 10 min).AQUACOCAMIDOPROPYL BETAI- 0.5-20%
    NESODIUM CHLORIDE G Solubilize the perfumes in decyl glucoside then add with gentle stirring (900 rpm for 10 min).DECYL GLUCOSIDEAQUA 0.5-20%PAREUMLINALOOL 0.1-5% G ' Add with gentle stirring (900 rpm for 10 min).AQUASODIUM COCOYLGLUTAMATE 0.25-10% H Add with gentle stirring (900 rpm for 10 min).AQUAGLYCERINCAES ALPINASPINOSA GUMSODIUM BENZOA-TEPOTASSIUM SORBATE /AQUA SODIUM HYALURONATEI Adjust the pH between 4.0 and 6.0LACTIC ACIDAQUA 0.1-2%
    According to the advantageous method of Example 1, a first part of the sodium cocoyl glutamate is added in step E ’to stabilize and refine the emulsion; the rest of the sodium cocoyl glutamate is then added in step G ’for its foaming properties.
    A tara gum can also be advantageously added in an additional step H.
    Different types of tests were carried out below, under the same conditions and on the same day for each composition tested. To this end, several foaming emulsions have been produced to determine the synergistic effect of the various ingredients of the composition according to the invention.
    [0115] [Tables!]
    Test 2357A.21 Composition according to the invention "control" comprising: 5% aloe vera juice, 0.04% aloe vera powder, 0.185% quaternized guar gum, 1.5% coconut oil, and a mixture of 4.736% cocamidopropyl betaine, 5% decyl glucoside, 0.285% sodium cocoyl glutamate Test 2357A.22 Composition "witness" without quaternized guar gum Test 2357A.23 “Control” composition without quaternized guar gum, replaced by a synthetic quaternary ammonium (cetrimonium chloride) concentrated at 0.185% Test 2357A.24 “Control” composition without coconut oil Test 2357A.25 "Control" composition with 0.5% coconut oil Test 2357A.26 Composition "control" with 1% coconut oil Test 2357A.27 Composition "control" without aloe vera (neither juice nor powder) Trial2357A.28 for SEM observation “Control” composition with the mixture of non-sulfur non-ethoxylated surfactants replaced by a sulfur surfactant (sodium lauryl sulfate at 10.021%) Trial2357A.29 for mousse / hairdresser tests “Control” composition with the mixture of non-sulfur non-ethoxylated surfactants replaced by a sulfur surfactant (sodium lauryl sulfate at 5.285%) and 4.736% of cocamidopropyl betaine
    For each composition, the composition according to the invention "control" prepared according to Example 1 was used as basic formulation from the same batches of raw materials, to which only the modifications indicated in Table 2 above have been made.
    Example 2: Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) [0118] Observation using a scanning microscope was carried out. This technique makes it possible to observe in detail the cuticles of a hair and therefore to assess the effect of the various hair compositions tested.
    The tests were carried out within the electron microscopy sector of the University of La Rochelle. The observations were made on the EEI Quanta 200 ESEM / Environmental EEG microscope, Canon LEG, Resolution 3 nm.
    To carry out these tests, natural European locks, shade 9 and 20 cm in length, supplied by the company Kerling Int. Haarfabrik GmbH were used.
    These locks were denatured with a denaturing solution containing 25.694% of osmosis water, 0.306% of sodium hydroxide solution and 74% of ILRAPON LAM BENZ® supplied by the company IFRACHIMIE S.A.S concentrated to 27% in sodium lauryl sulfate. The final pH of this solution is 7.99.
    The protocol for denaturing the locks is as follows:
    Prepare 500 mL of denaturing solution in a beaker.
    Immerse the wick in the denaturing solution, make 5 turns of beaker then leave the wick immersed in this solution for 3 minutes.
    Rinse the wick in 5 baths filled with 200 mL of reverse osmosis water:
    Turn the wick 3 times in the beaker of the 1st rinsing bath.
    Take the wick out of the bath and pass it between 2 fingers to wring it out.
    Repeat in the same way in the following 3 baths.
    Immerse the wick in the 5th rinsing bath, turn it 3 times then leave it immersed for 30 seconds before removing it from the bath and passing it between 2 fingers to wring it out.
    Do not dry the wick, and apply the product to be tested directly on a wet wick.
    8 strands of hair were denatured with this protocol. Once this denaturation had been carried out, the various compositions detailed in Table 2 were applied, one composition being applied by denatured wick.
    The application protocol used is as follows:
    Place 0.5 g of the composition to be tested in a watch glass.
    Pass a denatured wick in the composition to coat it.
    Place the wick in the open hand and make 10 circular movements with the other hand to lather.
    Rinse the wick immediately in 5 baths filled with 200 mL of reverse osmosis water: Turn the wick 3 times in the beaker of the 1st rinsing bath.
    Take the wick out of the bath and pass it between 2 fingers to wring it out.
    Repeat in the same way in the following 3 baths.
    Immerse the wick in the 5th rinsing bath, turn it 3 times then leave it immersed for 30 seconds before removing it from the bath and passing it between 2 fingers to wring it out.
    Detangle the wick by passing the comb 1 time over wet hair.
    Place the wick on absorbent paper and allow to dry naturally.
    These preparations were carried out the same day, in the laboratory, at an ambient temperature of 23.5 ° C., the temperature of the RO water baths being 25 ° C. and the pH of this water of 6.21.
    SEM observations were carried out the following day. To do this, a central part of the wick was cut and deposited hair by hair on decks intended for observation.
    The observations were made under environmental conditions, that is to say under water vapor, which makes the atmosphere around the sample conductive thus making it possible to analyze biological samples without degrading them. The pressure, voltage and temperature conditions are constant inside the chamber, namely P = 1.3 mbar and U = 10 kV.
    The results obtained (photographs at magnification * 1000) overall are detailed below, 3 locks of hair having been observed for each test.
    As illustrated in Figure 1 (Test 2357A.21), the scales are regular, they are parallel and are not detached, and the hair is well sheathed.
    As illustrated in Figure 2 (Test 2357A.22), there are holes in the scales signifying a cuticle tearing. Some smooth places show the absence of cuticle. We can therefore conclude to a complicated combing which led to the tearing of the cuticles. This complicated combing is explained by the absence of quaternized guar gum in the composition tested.
    As illustrated in Figure 3 (Test 2357A.23), the scales are completely detached and untidy; the white edges indicate that the edges of the cuticles are closer to the detector signifying detachment. The hair is not sheathed.
    As illustrated in Figure 4 (Test 2357A.24), the fibers are not beautiful, the scales are peeled off and torn off. There is still a lot of debris removed from the scales.
    As illustrated in Figure 5 (Test 2357A.25), the scales are fairly parallel but they are detached, the fiber is less sheathed.
    As illustrated in Figure 6 (Test 2357A.26), the hair is sheathed, the scales are little peeled off and one can even observe some deposits of coconut oil.
    As illustrated in Figure 7 (Test 2357A.27), the scales are very raised, they are peeling off in places, some are serrated, reflecting a lack of hydration.
    As illustrated in Figure 8 (Test 2357A.28), the scales are peeled off, there is debris from the scales signifying that the scales have been torn off. Some scales are erased, indicating that the cleaning is too detergent.
    Overall, on the basis of the results obtained in the context of this test, it can be concluded that:
    Aloe vera hydrates and protects the cuticles;
    Coconut oil will sheath and protect the cuticles from external aggressions when its percentage is greater than 0.5% (w / w), for example 1% or 1.5%;
    The sulfur surfactants appear to be too detergent, causing the cuticles to become detached; and [0141] quaternized guar gum is necessary for the proper disentangling of the hair, thus protecting the cuticles from mechanical attack.
    Example 3: Foam test [0143] The foaming power of a composition according to the invention was compared with that of products containing sulfur and ethoxylated surfactants.
    In fact, as indicated previously, one of the technical constraints of this invention was to replace the sulfur and ethoxylated surfactants with surfactants which are more respectful of the hair fiber while retaining an acceptable quantity and quality of foam in the final product.
    To carry out these tests, the Ross-Miles method was used. The Ross-Miles test is an experiment, the conditions of which are set by standard ASTM DI 173.
    It consists in pouring 200 ml of a solution, concentrated at 1% of the product to be tested, into a separatory funnel.
    This solution is then emptied from a fixed height (90 cm) into a graduated cylinder already containing 50 mL of this same solution.
    Height measurements of the column of foam formed are then carried out for times of 30 seconds, 3 minutes and 5 minutes.
    These solutions are prepared with reverse osmosis water at pH = 6.25.
    To carry out these tests, the composition according to the invention "control" (Test 2357A.21, Table 2) was used and compared with a composition (Test 2357A.29, Table 2) in which the mixture of non-surfactants sulfur and not ethoxylated is replaced by a sulfur surfactant (5.285% sodium lauryl sulfate supplied by the company IFRACHIMIE SAS) taken as a mixture with cocamidopropyl betaine (4.736%).
    The foaming power of such compositions was also compared with competing shampoos available on the market containing sulfur and ethoxylated surfactants, namely:
    Competitor 1:
    OGX - Nourishing + coconut milk shampoo® containing sodium Cl4-16 olefin sulfonate (1-30%);
    Competitor 2:
    Garnier Ultra-Doux - Nourishing shampoo without silicone, coconut milk and macadamia® containing sodium laureth sulfate (1-30%); and [0154] Competitor 3:
    BOTANICALS Fresh Care - Geranium® Radiance Remedy Shampoo containing sodium laureth sulfate (1-30%).
    The measurements were repeated 2 times for each product. The results obtained are detailed below:
    Composition according to the "Witness" invention (Test 2357A.21):
    [0157] [Tables3]
    Time (s) Foam height (mL) 30 90 180 (3 min) 90 300 (5 min) 90 Average height (mL) 90
    [0158] [Tables4]
    Time (s) Foam height (mL) 30 85 180 (3 min) 85 300 (5 min) 85 Average height (mL) 85
    [0159] Composition "Control" with sulfate + betaine (Test 2357A.29): [0160] [Tables5]
    Time (s) Foam height (mL) 30 100 180 (3 min) 95 300 (5 min) 95 Average height (mL) 97
    [0161] [Tables 6]
    Time (s) Foam height (mL) 30 90 180 (3 min) 80 300 (5 min) 80 Average height (mL) 83
    Competitor 1:
    [0163] [Tables ]
    t (s) Foam height (mL) 30 95 180 (3 min) 90 300 (5 min) 85 Average height (mL) 90
    [0164] [Tables 8]
    t (s) Foam height (mL) 30 100 180 (3 min) 100 300 (5 min) 100 Average height (mL) 100
    Competitor 2:
    [0166] [Tables9]
    t (s) Foam height (mL) 30 70 180 (3 min) 70 300 (5 min) 70 Average height (mL) 70
    [0167] [Tables10]
    t (s) Foam height (mL) 30 80 180 (3 min) 80 300 (5 min) 75 Average height (mL) 78
    Competitor 3:
    [0169] [Tables! 1]
    t (s) Foam height (mL) 30 80 180 (3 min) 70 300 (5 min) 60 Average height (mL) 70
    [0170] [Tablesl2]
    t (s) Foam height (mL) 30 90 180 (3 min) 90 300 (5 min) 90 Average height (mL) 90
    The results thus obtained demonstrate that the foaming power of a composition according to the invention comprising non-sulfur or ethoxylated surfactants is significantly similar to products containing sulfur and ethoxylated surfactants.
    We can also see that the foam of the products comprising sulfur surfactants appears to be less stable over time than that of the composition according to the invention.
    Example 4: Hairdresser test [0174] Tests were also carried out with an independent professional hairdresser in the premises of the Isatis laboratory located in La Rochelle.
    The recruitment of the panelists on which the different products were tested was done through the Léa Senso® sensory analysis laboratory. The recruitment criteria were to have women, with medium long hair in order to have enough material to evaluate the different criteria.
    The different products were coded by 3-digit codes, the composition according to the invention "witness" (Table 2), tested 7 times, presented a different code for each test so that the hairdresser could not identify. The order of presentation of the products was random, that is to say that the "control" composition could be both on the left side and on the right side.
    To carry out these tests, applications by half-head were carried out in order to be able to compare the tests on the same type of hair and on hair having exactly the same conditions. The quantities of products applied were weighed in order to apply the same quantities on both sides.
    To do this, the hairdresser separated the hair of the person in two by a parting in the middle.
    The hairdresser then noted different criteria with scores ranging from 0 to 10.
    The different criteria evaluated as well as the rating limits are as follows:
    - Foam volume (O = very low; 10 = very large);
    - Foam quality (0 = brittle, crunching; 10 = stable, soft, creamy);
    - Rinsing (O = very difficult; 10 = very easy);
    - Untangling (0 = very difficult; 10 = very easy);
    - Shine after drying (0 = dull; 10 = very shiny);
    - Volume after drying (O = very flat; 10 = large volume);
    - Softness after drying (O = very rough; 10 = very soft);
    - Flexibility after drying (0 = rigid; 10 = flexible);
    - Lightness after drying (0 = heavy; 10 = light).
    The effects of the composition according to the invention "control" were respectively compared with those of the other compositions mentioned in Table 2.
    Example 4.A:
    The composition according to the invention “control” (Test 2357A.21 = Reference 121) was tested with respect to the composition without quaternized guar gum (Test 2357A.22 = Reference 498), on a type of fine, flexible, colored hair. chemically.
    The results obtained are as follows:
    [0183] [Tables 13]
    Reference 121 ("Witness") 498 Notes (/ 10) Foam volume 7 7 Foam quality 7 8 Rinsing 9 9 Detangle 7 8 Shine after drying 10 7 Volume after drying 7 9 Softness after drying 9 7 Flexibility after drying 9 6 Lightness after drying 7 8
    The hairdresser did not observe any great difference in terms of foaming, rinsing or detangling during this test.
    On the other hand, after drying, the side where the composition according to the invention "control" was applied is much more shiny, the hair is much softer, more flexible and more sheathed. The fact that they are more sheathed results in a lower volume and lightness because the side with the composition without quaternized guar gum (Reference 498) was very sparkling, therefore more voluminous and light but much less beautiful.
    It can therefore be seen that the quaternized guar gum will in particular bring shine, softness, sheathing and suppleness to the hair, hence its interest in the composition according to the invention.
    Example 4.B:
    The composition according to the invention "control" (Test 2357A.21 = Reference 834) was tested with respect to the composition without quaternized guar gum, replaced by a quaternary ammonium (Test 2357A.23 = Reference 683), on a type of natural hair (without coloring), curly, dry, fine.
    The results obtained are as follows:
    [0188] [Tables14]
    Reference 683 834 ("Witness") Notes (/ 10) Foam volume 7 7 Foam quality 7 7 Rinsing 8 8 Detangle 6.5 8 Shine after drying 6 7 Volume after drying 7 6 Softness after drying 6.5 8 Flexibility after drying 9 9 Lightness after drying 9 9
    [0189] The hairdresser did not observe any great difference in terms of foaming and rinsing. Detangling is easier on the side where the composition according to the "control" invention has been applied.
    After drying, the hair is also softer on the side of the composition according to the "control" invention, the curls are better drawn and the hair is more sheathed (therefore less voluminous, more disciplined).
    The panelist also indicated that he felt itching and tightness on the side where Reference 683 was applied. We can assume that this itching is caused by the presence of Cetrimonium Chloride, which is a suspected irritant.
    The quaternized guar gum included in the composition according to the invention has an essential role and cannot advantageously be replaced by another quaternary ammonium.
    Example 4.C:
    The composition according to the invention “control” (Test 2357A.21 = Reference 148) was tested with respect to the composition without coconut oil (Test 2357A.24 = Reference 946), on a type of natural hair with a few wicks.
    The results obtained are as follows:
    [0194] [Tablesl5]
    Reference 148 ("Witness") 946 Notes (/ 10) Foam volume 7 10 Foam quality 7 9 Rinsing 9 9 Detangle 8 6 Shine after drying 9 9 Volume after drying 7 9 Softness after drying 9 7 Flexibility after drying 9 8 Lightness after drying 8 9
    In this example, we observed a large difference in foam, the shampoo without coconut oil foaming much better. Vegetable oils tend to break the foam.
    On the other hand, concerning the disentangling, we can see that the coconut oil will help significantly to facilitate the disentangling.
    After drying, the hair is also softer and more sheathed (therefore less voluminous) on the side where the composition according to the invention "control" containing coconut oil was applied.
    It was also observed a lot of frizz on the side where the Reference 946 was applied.
    Example 4.D:
    The composition according to the invention "control" (Test 2357A.21 = Reference 117) was tested with respect to the composition with 0.5% coconut oil (Test 2357A.25 = Reference 432), on a type of natural hair, highlights, oily.
    The results obtained are as follows:
    [0200] [Tables 16]
    Reference 117 ("Witness") 432 Notes (/ 10) Foam volume 8 6 Foam quality 9 5 Rinsing 8 8 Detangle 8 7 Shine after drying 6 6 Volume after drying 9 6 Softness after drying 8 8 Flexibility after drying 9 7 Lightness after drying 9 7
    We can observe a big difference in foam, which it is better not to use, the panelist having a very oily scalp which had the effect of breaking the foam during shampooing.
    Regarding disentangling, the hairdresser nevertheless noted an improvement in disentangling when the composition according to the invention "control" containing 1.5% coconut oil was applied to the control.
    [0203] After drying, the hair is equivalent in terms of shine and softness. Hair treated with the “control” composition is, however, lighter, more supple and more voluminous.
    This test demonstrates the need to add coconut oil to a significant percentage of more than 0.5% in the composition according to the invention.
    Example 4.E:
    The composition according to the invention “control” (Test 2357A.21 = Reference 457) was tested with respect to the composition with 1% of coconut oil (Test 2357A.26 = Reference 591), on a type of chemically colored, thick hair.
    The results obtained are as follows:
    [0206] [Tables 17]
    Reference 591 457 ("Witness") Notes (/ 10) Foam volume 7 7 Foam quality 7 8 Rinsing 8 8 Detangle 6.5 8 Shine after drying 6 6 Volume after drying 6 6 Softness after drying 8 8 Flexibility after drying 3 3 Lightness after drying 3 3
    Few differences were observed overall between these two compositions.
    We can note a small difference in the quality of foam, the foam being creamier and softer in the composition according to the invention "control" containing more coconut oil (1.5%) .
    Detangling is also facilitated the more the amount of coconut oil increases.
    The flexibility and lightness results obtained can be explained by the panelist's hair type. Indeed, the latter had very thick hair, so could not be flexible or light.
    This test has shown that it is advantageous to increase the concentration of coconut oil: the more the concentration of coconut oil is increased (ze 1.5%), the softer the foam. and creamy, the easier the disentangling.
    Example 02F:
    The composition according to the "control" invention (Test 2357A.21 = Reference 701) was tested with respect to the composition without aloe vera (Test 2357A.27 = Reference 252), on a type of chemically sparkling hair.
    The results obtained are as follows:
    [0213] [Tables 18]
    Reference 701 ("Witness") 252 Notes (/ 10) Foam volume 7 6 Foam quality 8 7 Rinsing 8 8 Detangle 6 8 Shine after drying 9 9 Volume after drying 8 9 Softness after drying 9 7 Flexibility after drying 9 8 Lightness after drying 7 9
    [0214] The addition of aloe vera seems to help stabilize the foam. It has no impact on rinsing and yet seems to slightly complicate detangling.
    After drying, the hair is softer, more flexible and more sheathed (therefore less voluminous and less light) on the side where the composition according to the invention "control" containing aloe vera has been applied.
    This test validates the effects of aloe vera on dry hair, confirms its contribution of softness and flexibility and highlights its advantageous properties in the composition according to the invention.
    Example 4.G:
    The composition according to the "control" invention (Test 2357A.21 = Reference 384) was tested with respect to the composition with only a sulfur-containing surfactant (Test 2357A.29 = Reference 163), on a type of natural, dry hair.
    The results obtained are as follows:
    [0218] [Tables 19]
    Reference 163 384 ("Witness") Notes (/ 10) Foam volume 10 8 Foam quality 9 8 Rinsing 9 9 Detangle 10 8 Shine after drying 7 9 Volume after drying 9 7 Softness after drying 7 9 Flexibility after drying 7 9 Lightness after drying 8 7
    As expected, the sulfur surfactants provided much more foam than the non-sulfur and non-ethoxylated surfactants used in the composition according to the "control" invention. It would seem that they also helped with the untangling.
    However, after drying, the hair treated with the composition according to the "control" invention is much more shiny, softer, more flexible and more sheathed (therefore less volume and lightness).
    In addition, the side treated with the composition comprising the sulfur-containing surfactant (sulfate) was filled with frizz and the hair was not at all sheathed and appeared visually dry.
    Sulfur surfactants such as sulfates therefore provide more foam to the composition than in the composition according to the invention. Nevertheless, the result on dry hair is obvious, visible directly and much less satisfactory. The sulfur surfactants will indeed bring a rough and dull side to the hair.
    In conclusion, these tests made it possible to confirm that:
    Taloé vera brings softness, flexibility and sheathing to the hair;
    [0225] coconut oil helps detangling. It also brings softness and sheathing to the hair when it is used at a significant percentage (greater than 0.5% (w / w), for example at least 1%);
    The sulfur surfactants, very good foaming agents, perhaps even too detergents, will tarnish and bring a rough side to the hair. They are unexpectedly advantageously replaced by non-sulfur and non-ethoxylated surfactants which also make it possible to obtain satisfactory foaming power and stability; and [0227] the quaternized guar gum brings shine, softness, sheathing and suppleness to the hair. It also does not appear to be able to be advantageously replaced by another quaternary ammonium.
    权利要求:
    Claims (1)
    [1" id="c-fr-0001]
    Claims [Claim 1] Cosmetic composition intended to be applied to the hair and scalp comprising extracts of aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis) and of coconut fruit (Cocos nuciferci), characterized in that it is in the form of a foaming emulsion comprising , in a cosmetically acceptable medium:- an aloe vera extract chosen from water, juice and / or aloe vera powder;- more than 0.5% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w) of a coconut oil;- at least one non-sulfur and non-ethoxylated surfactant; and- at least one cationic conditioning agent derived from guar gum (Cyamopsis tetragonoloba). [Claim 2] Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that it does not comprise a sulfur-containing and / or ethoxylated surfactant. [Claim 3] Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises powdered aloe vera leaves at a concentration of between 0.01% and 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w) and / or juice of aloe vera leaves at a concentration of between 0.5% and 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w). [Claim 4] Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises coconut oil at a concentration of between 1% and 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w). [Claim 5] Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-sulfur and non-ethoxylated surfactant is chosen from cocamidopropyl betaine, decyl glucoside, sodium cocoyl glutamate, lauryl glucoside, coco glucoside, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, and surfactants derived from glucamide such as cocoyl methyl glucamide or sunfloweroyl methyl glucamide, taken alone or as a mixture, preferably a mixture of cocamidopropyl betaine, decyl glucoside and sodium cocoyl glutamate. [Claim 6] Composition according to Claim 5, characterized in that it comprises respectively, in combination:between 0.5 and 20% (w / w) of cocamidopropyl betaine,between 0.5% and 20% (w / w) of decyl glucoside, andbetween 0.25% and 10% (w / w) sodium cocoyl glutamate.
    [Claim 7] Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic conditioning agent derived from guar gum is a derivative of quaternized guar gum, preferably a hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar chloride. [Claim 8] Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises the cationic conditioning agent obtained from guar gum at a concentration of between 0.05% and 1% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w) . [Claim 9] Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one anionic gelling agent chosen from xanthan gum, locust bean gum, gellan gum, cellulose, pectin, bentonite, carrageenans, preferably xanthan gum. [Claim 10] Composition according to Claim 9, characterized in that it comprises the anionic gelling agent at a concentration of between 0.1% and 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w). [Claim 11] Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises a hydrating or soothing agent chosen from hyaluronic acid, sodium PCA, glycerin and other glycerol derivatives or a polysaccharide such as a rich polysaccharide in galactomannans, for example tara gum (caesalpina spinosa). [Claim 12] Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises another vegetable oil chosen from castor oil, argan, jojoba, sweet almond, shea, avocado, carrot, apricot kernels, germ of wheat, nigella, mustard, borage, hazelnut, macadamia, abyssinia, sesame, evening primrose, prickly pear, grape seeds, safflower, camelina, karanja, camellia, chia, flax, mango, baobab, broccoli, andiroba, babassu, date palm desert, monoï, moringa, taken alone or in mixture. [Claim 13] Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises another hair conditioning agent chosen from hydroxypropyltrimonium honey, brassicamodipropyl dimethylamine, brassicyl isoleucinate esylate and brassicyl valinate esylate, taken alone or as a mixture. [Claim 14] Process for the preparation of a composition according to one of Claims 1 to 13, characterized in that it comprises the following stages according to which:a) mixing the aloe vera extract (s) chosen from water,
    aloe vera juice and / or powder in water,
    b) at least one cationic conditioning agent from guar gum is dispersed in the mixture obtained in a),
    c) after neutralization, an aqueous gel is left to form by agitation greater than 1000 revolutions / minute in an emulsifier,
    d) optionally, an anionic gelling agent is dispersed by agitation greater than 1000 revolutions / minute in an emulsifier and heating to a temperature greater than 50 ° C.,
    e) more than 0.5% coconut oil by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w) is heated to a temperature above 50 ° C. and then is added to the aqueous gel obtained in c) or d ) under foam concentrate, and
    f) a non-sulfur and non-ethoxylated surfactant is added at a temperature below 30 ° C. with stirring of less than 1000 revolutions / minute to obtain a foaming emulsion.
    [Claim 15] Cosmetic use of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 13 for washing or caring for the hair.
    [Claim 16] A method of cosmetic treatment of the hair, characterized in that it consists in applying to the hair an effective amount of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 13 and then optionally in rinsing with water.
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    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    EP3622946A1|2020-03-18|
    EP3622946B1|2021-01-06|
    FR3085592B1|2020-10-09|
    引用文献:
    公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题
    FR2854066A1|2003-04-25|2004-10-29|Roger Dietre|Topical cosmetic composition for stimulating growth and combating loss of hair contains synergistic mixture of Ginkgo biloba, mucopolysaccharide, Swertia, group B vitamin, aloe vera and proline|
    US20090130220A1|2007-11-20|2009-05-21|Johnson Pamela A|Cosmetic composition having pomace olive oil|
    WO2015124377A1|2014-02-24|2015-08-27|Beiersdorf Ag|Cleaning preparations from natural components for skin and hair|
    US9107839B1|2014-05-08|2015-08-18|Gwendolyn J. Williams|Hair care composition|
    KR20160147307A|2015-06-15|2016-12-23|주식회사 빅그린|Containing ingredients derived from natural slightly acidic shampoo, slightly acidic treatment, slightly acidic hairpack and scalp or hair improved method using the same|
    CN108778240A|2015-12-16|2018-11-09|阿甫夏洛穆·夫马修|Baby skin protection product|US20220047478A1|2020-08-11|2022-02-17|The Procter & Gamble Company|Low viscosity hair conditioner compositions containing brassicyl valinate esylate|
    WO2022036352A1|2020-08-11|2022-02-17|The Procter & Gamble Company|Clean rinse hair conditioner compositions containing brassicyl valinate esylate|
    法律状态:
    2019-07-26| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2020-03-13| PLSC| Search report ready|Effective date: 20200313 |
    2020-08-10| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2021-09-01| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1871026A|FR3085592B1|2018-09-12|2018-09-12|HAIR COSMETIC COMPOSITION BASED ON ALOE VERA AND COCONUT OIL AND ITS PREPARATION PROCESS|
    FR1871026|2018-09-12|FR1871026A| FR3085592B1|2018-09-12|2018-09-12|HAIR COSMETIC COMPOSITION BASED ON ALOE VERA AND COCONUT OIL AND ITS PREPARATION PROCESS|
    EP19196092.1A| EP3622946B1|2018-09-12|2019-09-09|Cosmetic hair composition made of aloe vera and coconut oil and method for preparing same|
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